Charlotte Dellal tells us why it's all about the 40s this season
By Nancy Alsop on September 1st 2011
Can you tell us about your AW11 collection?
For Fall 2011 I was inspired by Agatha Christie. I grew up reading all her novels, and murder mysteries have always been my favourite genre of book and film, in large part because they hark back to the twenties through to the forties, which are eras I adore. My favourite being 'Evil Under the Sun'.
I think you based it on the character of ill-fated Arlena Stuart-Marshall. Fabulous character! How did that come about?
‘Evil under the sun’ is my favourite Christie novel of all. It’s set on Burgh Island, where my now-husband once took me for a weekend; I loved everything about it, from the art deco style, to the fact that you have to wear black tie to dinner. Every season I have a pin-up for the collection and Arlena Stuart-Marshall as played by Diana Rigg in the film adaptation is just so fantastic and glamorous. She’s so over the top that she’s almost ridiculous – she’s tongue-in-cheek but ultimately fabulous, which is just the kind of character I’m drawn to.
What is the first pair of shoes you can remember loving?
It must have been a pair that belonged to my mother, she had – and still has - a wonderful collection of high heels, as well as a fantastic wardrobe of clothes. Like many girls, I loved dressing up in her clothes from the moment I was old enough to dress myself.
Why did you decide to go into designing shoes?
I have always wanted to be a fashion designer, I think when I made my first pair of shoes is when I realised that footwear was the field I wanted to specialize in. I did the foundation year in fashion, and then specialised in shoes. The first pair I made were the highest, skinniest heels I could find at the college – they were black with ornaments dangling off them. In fact I still have them – they sit proudly on my shelf to this day.
How would you describe your style?
Nostalgic.
You are clearly very inspired by the style of the 1940s - what is it about that era that so appeals?
It was a bygone era full of glamour and was also so rich in accessories. I loved the excess of the twenties, which was such a quintessentially English time – you sense what an exciting and exotic time it must have been given the fact that people were travelling far and wide. The glamour of the thirties and forties is also wonderful – even given that in the latter decade there was very much a make-do-and-mend attitude through the war years.
Is there such a thing as a typical Charlotte Olympia customer?
Someone who dresses from the feet up!
You moved into your first standalone store in Mayfair last year. What is it about the area that particularly appealed?
Location was important, my shop is very central, yet hidden away enough from the hustle and bustle of Bond Street.
What's been your proudest moment professionally?
Opening my first store in Mayfair, London.
And do you have an all-time favourite pair of shoes that you designed? It's hard to choose a favourite, but this season I love the 'Arlena in Excess' shoe and the 'Kitty' flats.
You have just given birth to your second child (for which congratulations!). How do you balance your working life with motherhood?
I have my office close to my home so that I can be close to my babies!
What will you be wearing this autumn?
My highest heels! Having just been pregnant, I have been wearing flats throughout most of the year.
What are your wardrobe staples?
Hats and high heels.
And the one thing that you would save from your wardrobe if your house was on fire?
A beautiful Lacroix dress that once belonged to my mother, I now have it framed and hung up in my dressing room.
What is the one stand out outfit have you felt best in in your life?
My wedding dress by Giambattista Valli.
Any fashion disasters?
Cutting a fringe, not the best when you have curly hair.
Who do you consider to have great taste?
My mother; she's beautiful dressed up and dressed down.
And who are your style icons?
My Grandmother Zehava was very glamorous and elegantly dressed every day of her life.
Will we one day see Charlotte Olympia clothes?
At the moment shoes come first, however I have a signature clutch box called 'Pandora'.
You have a huge celebrity following - what does that mean to you?
It gives the brand great exposure, however nothing beats spotting someone in the street wearing a pair of my shoes.
What would you have been doing if you hadn't been a shoe designer? Probably lingerie.
What is next for Charlotte Olympia... any more shops on the horizon?
I would love to open more stores around the world in the future.
Charlotte Olympia, 55 Maddox Street, W1S 1AY; 020 7499 0145
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