Gallery Mess, Chelsea, Restaurant Review

The all-day diner at The Saatchi Gallery, run by top event caterer "rhubarb", is a big step up from your average museum café. Housed in a tall-ceilinged space at the front of Duke of York's HQ, its finest asset is perhaps the west-facing terrace, where those lucky enough to bag a much-in-demand seat can soak up the afternoon sun - and a nice bottle of rosé - while looking out across the lawns.

Inside, it's all about the art. Artists from around the world compete in regular showdowns on the Saatchi Online website and the winners' works get displayed in the Gallery Mess, where diners can pick up a piece to take home. Everything you see is for sale and, given the reasonable food prices, you may feel inclined to splash out. There are breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, as well as dinner selections and nothing apart from the small range of daily specials costs more than £10 a plate.

Early birds can start the day with a dry-cured bacon roll, yoghurt with home-made granola, or an oversized tea cup full of fresh fruits and berries, while at lunch it's hard to beat the juicy house burger, served medium on a freshly baked bun, with a portion of thick-cut chips on the side. Teatime treats include sandwiches, scones and cakes and there's also a separate children's menu.

Our favourites from the dinner menu were the 'Bloody Mary' prawn cocktails and individual rhubarb and strawberry crumbles with rose petal ice cream - both offering clever twists on classic recipes. A main of spiced salmon in light curry broth was too sweet for our liking but even that was several notches above your usual museum fare. All the food was attractively presented and service throughout was excellent. All in all: a beautiful Mess.
By Annica Wainwright, an editor of Square Meal

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